If eyes are the window to the soul, then eyeliner may very well be seen as amplifying the soul’s function.
Following the onset of the pandemic, eyeliner skilled a lift in gross sales because of the widespread use of face masks, which hid many of the face thereby emphasizing the eyes. Shoppers worldwide experimented with a newfound time period referred to as “above the masks” magnificence, particularly utilizing eye make-up to faucet into their creativity and rejoice their private id. By 2021, the worldwide eye make-up market reached an astounding worth of $15.6 billion and was anticipated to develop to $21.4 billion by 2027 and $24.49 billion by 2029.
“Nefertiti was actually our authentic magnificence influencer.”
It was round this time that Zahra Hankir – creator or “Eyeliner: A Cultural Historical past” – additionally deepened her personal relationship with eyeliner. The acclaimed journalist has at all times been an avid person of the defining beauty. However, it was one thing in regards to the unprecedented and dire nature of the pandemic’s peak that compelled her to search out extra which means within the strains she routinely drew round her eyes.
“Eyeliner was that one object that gave me a way of normalcy,” Hankir mentioned. “It made me really feel higher about myself, not simply when it comes to my bodily look, which I feel many individuals can relate to. But additionally this concept that I used to be connecting to one thing greater than me and that I wasn’t alone.”
Each time Hankir wore her eyeliner, she felt related to her mom, her sister, her grandmother and, extra broadly, her tradition. Eyeliner basically took on three main roles: the primary being self-care, the second being self-preservation and the third being safety. With out it, Hankir mentioned she felt “bare,” which is why she continued placing on eyeliner even when she spent most of her time within the consolation of her own residence.
Hankir’s private journey with eyeliner started throughout her childhood. Rising up in northern England, Hankir discovered it difficult to slot in as a younger Muslim lady with Levantine and Egyptian heritage. Eyeliner, which was launched to her by an in depth buddy on the time, finally taught Hankir to embrace her true self wholeheartedly. Later in her adolescent and younger grownup years, eyeliner grew to become symbols of confidence, revolt and energy.
“As my curiosity on this exceptional product deepened, I looked for its which means in historical past,” Hankir writes in her new e book “Eyeliner: A Cultural Historical past,” which explores the beauty, social and cultural historical past behind the favored eye make-up. “There, I found an abundance of figures and cultural practices past these I knew from Western music and movie.”
Along with detailing her private story, Hankir explores eyeliner’s significance within the tales of Nefertiti, Amy Winehouse and many extra. She writes about eyeliner’s international attain, spotlighting tales of eyeliner within the savannas of Africa, within the hair salons of Iran and within the alleyways of Kyoto.
Salon spoke with the creator about eyeliner’s affect on Western magnificence requirements together with its utilization as a software for resistance, specifically within the aftermath of Mahsa Amini’s demise.
This interview has been flippantly edited for readability and context.
You’ve been occupied with eyeliner for a very long time, via your loved ones but in addition via the lens of assimilation and id. When do you know that you just had sufficient to dig into past your private associations, that you’d be capable of make a e book on this topic?
I’ve had form of an extended historical past with sporting eyeliner. And I at all times had an inkling or primary information that it was about greater than magnificence — that it was intently tied to heritage and id. It wasn’t till a lot afterward that I explored the thought of a e book. I feel the second for me was once I was having dinner with an in depth Iranian buddy and we’re speaking about e book concepts. Sooner or later, I feel each of us simply pulled out our eyeliner – it simply occurred to be that she pulled her out and I pulled out mine. After which we each began speaking about how vital these objects have been for id, but in addition our aesthetic. That was the second I used to be like, “Wait a minute, has this ever been performed earlier than?” Regardless that there’s this lengthy historical past of eyeliner that dates again to historic texts and poetry and artwork, intersectionality might truly assist when it comes to writing a e book as a result of every tradition and neighborhood has their very own experiences with eyeliner, however there’s truly a via line there within the sense that it is about a lot greater than magnificence. It comes all the way down to issues like id and heritage and energy and gender and race and so many different issues.
I wished to the touch on one thing that you just talked about earlier, about how your relationship with eyeliner modified amid the pandemic and also you have been embracing it to a larger extent. Are you able to discuss in regards to the specifics?
To me, the pandemic enhanced this concept that eyeliner was intently related to me, with my psychological well being. Regardless that I could be struggling in some areas, as so many people did throughout the pandemic, and struggling to discover a sense of normalcy for me, eyeliner was that one object that gave me that sense of normalcy, and that it wasn’t one thing that I used to be going to surrender. Eyeliner made me really feel higher about myself, not simply when it comes to my bodily look, which I feel many individuals can relate to. But additionally this concept that I used to be connecting to one thing greater than me and that I wasn’t alone. Each time I put on my eyeliner, I really feel like I am connecting to my mom and my sister and my grandmother and my tradition. So I feel in that sense, it took on this position of being part of not simply self care, but in addition self-preservation, as a result of it simply gave me this sense that I really feel protected once I put on my eyeliner. Once I do not put on it, I really feel like I am bare. The pandemic might have been a second for me the place I mentioned, ‘Properly, I am not likely going out. I am not seeing folks. I am staying at house alone.’ That is the one time once I might have stopped sporting eyeliner, however truly it is one thing that I proceed to show to.
As you be aware in your e book, eyeliner is a distinctly Jap make-up creation, with Nefertiti being one of many greatest influences in bringing this make-up apply to the remainder of the world, particularly the West. May you discuss extra about how eyeliner affected Western magnificence requirements?
“We nonetheless exist in a world wherein Black and brown magnificence will not be celebrated as a lot as white magnificence.”
What I argue within the e book is that Nefertiti was actually our authentic magnificence influencer, and our concept of Nefertiti derives from her bust. I feel virtually instantly there was this concept of Nefertiti being an unique magnificence. And a part of that was due to the best way her eyes have been stencils. She had these very piercing eyes . . . it is fascinating as a result of certainly one of her eyes was truly lacking however each of the eyes have been lined. And he or she had this completely symmetrical face with very sturdy cheekbones and jaw. How do you emulate that look, proper? Properly, folks have been transfixed by that look, understandably. And one of many instruments that they used was eyeliner as a result of they might solely actually emulate the look by getting her massive white collar necklaces, styling their hair or sporting their hats in a selected manner and eyeliner. So I feel that a part of this infatuation along with her was this concept that you may look “unique” like her by sporting eyeliner, and I feel that that’s an extension of Orientalism and this obsession with Egypt which was referred to as Egyptomania.
Many magnificence magazines began to jot down these characteristic tales about Nefertiti and you’ll have a white lady posing subsequent to the bust of Nefertiti. Now, the fascinating a part of that discourse, I feel, was that the backdrop of that was racism and an absence of illustration or enough illustration within the magnificence business for girls of coloration. And there have been these tales about Nefertiti that might advise girls methods to appear like her, however they’d say, “Do not darken your pores and skin an excessive amount of,” that type of factor. So, the backdrop of racism, I feel in Orientalism, was very current on the time. The sweetness requirements of the time have been fairly Eurocentric, however they have been cherry-picking components of Jap magnificence. And a kind of issues that they cherry-picked was the darkened eyes, the thought of darkened eyes and eyeliner.
I feel that type of appropriation nonetheless exists right this moment. It is virtually like fetishizing Nefertiti while not humanizing her. And I feel that we proceed to see that right this moment 100 years later, in some ways, although there have been enhancements. I feel what eyeliner says about magnificence requirements in that particular context, the popularization of Nefertiti was that they weren’t totally able to revise their magnificence requirements. They have been simply saying: we nonetheless adhere to European magnificence requirements. However let’s take this one actually fascinating component of Jap magnificence and let’s attempt to copy that ourselves.
What’s the affect when folks like Kylie Jenner tackle make-up tendencies like eyeliner types that make them look extra “ethnically ambiguous” although she’s white?
I feel finally, we needs to be providing credit score the place credit score is due. And if there are specific magnificence practices or make-up practices that originate within the East, we needs to be fairly delicate to that and we should always at the very least educate ourselves. I feel when white celebrities and influencers cherry decide components of Black and brown magnificence in a manner that makes them look ethnically ambiguous, to say the very least. I feel that is extremely problematic as a result of we nonetheless exist in a world wherein Black and brown magnificence will not be celebrated as a lot as white magnificence. So, it is simple to dip into these elements of Black and brown magnificence with out truly experiencing any type of racism that could be related to being Black or brown.
I feel with eyeliner too, there have been sure tendencies. Fox is certainly one of them, this concept the place individuals are giving themselves this form of elongated eye look with the assistance of eyeliner. In some instances, fashions would pose in a sure strategy to intensify their eyes in a sure manner, whereas many Asian girls had truly skilled an excessive amount of racism for the best way that their eye might need naturally seemed proper once they have been rising up. Individuals must be educated about the truth that they might be adopting a sure look that they take into account “fashionable” when actually, there are lots of girls all over the world who’ve been mocked and who’ve skilled racism for having exactly that look.
Past simply id, your e book highlights how eyeliner and make-up usually, can be utilized for resistance, particularly citing the case of Mahsa Amini (often known as Jîna) and the strict Islamic gown code for girls in Iran. How did you discover the ladies who have been prepared to talk about this? And what did you be taught from them?
That was a really delicate chapter as a result of I used to be truly resulting from journey to Iran on the time when the protests broke out and I wasn’t capable of. I labored very intently with an Iranian analysis assistant there who assisted me with gathering the quotes and the data that I wanted. And I give credit score to her, in fact. I do not suppose I might have been capable of put that chapter collectively with out her help, particularly since you want the native language and also you want the flexibility to analysis to offer a extra complete have a look at these specific cultures and communities. I am very indebted to the analysis assistant for her help.
“I feel the Chola neighborhood is the proper instance or manifestation of how make-up can truly be political.”
It was such a delicate time when it got here to the thought of how a girl presents herself there in a manner that truly heightens the relevance of the dialog, as a result of make-up performs an enormous position in Iran in terms of self-expression. The face takes on outsize significance there as a result of there aren’t that many different avenues to self-expression. Iran is definitely one of many greatest customers of cosmetics in the whole world, however there may be a whole lot of nuance round how girls put on eyeliner there. Cosmetics have been banned successfully in 1979, however girls discovered very inventive methods to nonetheless self-express, although they needed to cowl their our bodies. Eyeliner was a kind of instruments. Girls have been sporting eyeliner in form of daring methods, or they have been sporting nail polish or lipstick. It is fairly fascinating as nicely as a result of sormeh is taken into account to be permissible as a result of the Prophet Muhammad was mentioned to have worn a type of eyeliner. A really delicate sporting of eyeliner alongside the water strains, for instance, could be thought-about fully superb, however to put on a wing in sure areas will get a whole lot of consideration. I feel what I actually took from the analysis is that Iranian girls are extremely resourceful, extremely inventive in terms of self-expression, it doesn’t matter what the restrictions positioned upon them are.
You write in regards to the significance of distinct make-up in Chola tradition. And though it’s not seen as resistance per se, generally embracing your id might be seen as political or a social commentary. What did you be taught in analysis and chatting with girls who have been pleased with their chola presentation?
I feel the Chola neighborhood is the proper instance or manifestation of how make-up can truly be political, and aesthetics can be utilized as a type of resistance. The historical past of that’s that when the Mexican neighborhood moved right here, they skilled an excessive amount of racism and strain upon them to assimilate, particularly when it got here to their aesthetics. The backdrop of that’s racism and this concept that you need to assimilate into Anglo-American tradition. So, for the Chola neighborhood, the best way that they dressed and wore their make-up was truly part of the broader resistance. There was all of the political activism, however there was additionally aesthetic activism, and the aesthetic was very distinct. It is lined eyes, lined lips, the nameplate necklace, the massive hoop earrings, the massive hair and a particular sort of clothes. For them to put on that clothes is to take delight of their id and of their heritage and to reject adopting anybody else’s aesthetic. To me, that’s truly deeply and inherently political.
What’s fascinating is also that there was some cultural appropriation on the time of this aesthetic, which is not shocking, by some white celebrities or vogue homes. Eyeliner is sort of central to that aesthetic and it is wielded as a form of weapon in a manner and as a type of armor.
Gwen Stefani has famously taken on the chola aesthetic (amongst others). What does somebody like her miss in terms of this sort of cultural appropriation?
I feel it was positively a unique time as nicely. I do should say her “Luxurious” video got here out a few years in the past. I feel that the conversations round cultural appropriation have modified as a result of individuals are extra understanding that to take sure components of magnificence from different cultures might be problematic, relying on how that’s then offered and packaged to the world. On the whole, I feel there’s extra consciousness. I feel what folks ought to know is that they should educate themselves and the way these messages might be obtained. There’s simply a lot extra to it and we’d like to pay attention to these dynamics. I feel any white one who engages in this sort of conduct, with out acknowledging these dynamics, can be responsible of cultural appropriation versus cultural appreciation. There is a line there.
There are two people you commit complete chapters to in your e book. The primary is Nefertiti, whom we’ve already mentioned. The opposite is Amy Winehouse, who is thought for her daring and dramatic cat eye. What’s it about Winehouse and her make-up that you just wished to delve into?
“Oftentimes, she can be critiqued for the best way that her eyeliner was worn.”
Nefertiti and Amy Winehouse are icons in terms of their eyeliner use. I feel what makes Winehouse fairly fascinating as a personality is that it is virtually not possible to separate her and our concept of her from her aesthetic. Amy Winehouse was impressed and influenced by many various teams, however she nonetheless took these influences after which made her personal aesthetic and look. I do not suppose that any modern celeb has been capable of connect themselves into our reminiscences in the best way that Amy Winehouse’s aesthetic has.
On the similar time, there was a lot swirling round her when it comes to what she was going via psychologically and when it got here to coming to phrases along with her fame. Her fame took on a lifetime of its personal, and he or she was hounded within the press for her aesthetic. Oftentimes, she can be critiqued for the best way that her eyeliner was worn. If her strains weren’t symmetrical, they have been smudged or they have been smeared, she felt in need of perfection. She was critiqued in a really public manner proper and that is clearly very problematic. I feel there was a component of attraction and intrigue when it got here to her aesthetic as a result of it was like she the extra well-known she grew to become, the larger her wings grew to become but in addition, the extra she struggled along with her confidence, the larger her wings grew to become. So her wings and her massive beehive type of lent her this stage of safety. She was very susceptible within the public eye. And in some methods, I really feel just like the absence of her eyeliner truly made extra of an announcement than her truly sporting her eyeliner as a result of in her ultimate efficiency, she wasn’t in a position to attract her personal strains.
May you talk about how her look is a private inspiration to your individual?
The concept of transformation and the way layered the usage of eyeliner might be is admittedly epitomized by the story of Amy Winehouse. I additionally suppose folks solely celebrated her after her demise and her demise. However truly, her aesthetic was so singular and so distinctive, that it was one thing to be actually celebrated that ought to have been celebrated whereas she was alive as nicely. So, she’s fairly an interesting determine, and I feel after we speak about eyeliner, and the historical past of eyeliner, it’s a must to have a look at the individuals who wore it. The historical past is not simply in regards to the composition. It isn’t simply in regards to the liquid or the pencil or the pen or the strains or the pigments. It is about the one who chooses to put on them and why they’re sporting them. I feel that Amy Winehouse is sort of an interesting determine in that regard.